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My Pa has always been adventurous and curious, with a story for every occasion.
Some of my youngest memories with him are hanging out in my grandparents’ backyard, either having lessons on how to incorrectly use the trampoline, or him explaining to us how he built his remote control aeroplanes, the canyons and rivers they’d be perfect for, and teaching us how to fly them.
But despite his curious mind and thirst for exploration, his own overseas adventures started and ended with the Korean War in the early 1950s.
Underage at the time, he signed up for the Australian army illegally and was sent to the front line.
He fought there until, after stepping on a landmine, he returned home – thankfully largely unharmed.
In the following years, he settled down, had seven children and, as air travel became more affordable, he saved up what little he could to return to Korea to pay respects to his fallen comrades, which he considered his duty to honour those who fought alongside him.
But as the years went by, his dreams of seeing mountains, glaciers, and particularly squirrels, became more and more distant; just images on the internet that he’d keenly show us whenever we visited.
He saw his children and grandchildren travel the globe and followed every step of our journeys online – living through us.
So when in 2019, at the age of 87, he ended up in hospital, it triggered something in me: a desire to ensure this person who helped me dream of the world and its adventures, could see some of it for himself.
With stories of the hills of the Yukon and Alaska in mind, I told my sisters of my outlandish idea – A 90th birthday present to fulfil his ultimate dream.
Ernie in Juneau, Alaska. Ernie’s granddaughter Breanna says travelling with a 91-year-old is not without its challenges. Source: SBS
North to Alaska we go
Fourteen months later we were off – “North to Alaska!” as he would say.
We planned to catch the train from White Horse, Canada, to Skagway – a historic train line from the Alaskan Gold Rush of the 1890s – and see Mount Denali, the tallest mountain in North America.
Flying via Hawaii (to minimise the impact on our wallets and Pa’s legs on the plane) we arrived in White Horse. At this point, it still felt very surreal.
But the next day the holiday kicked off, with the historic train tooting its horn and smoke billowing out.
We were headed to Skagway!
As the train twisted its way through the hills, past historic huts and valleys, Pa kept his eyes fixated out the window – only turning to tell us the elevation, names of hills and passes, and of course what plane would be best to navigate them with.
Ernie outside the train from Whitehorse to Skagway. Source: SBS
From there it was a whirlwind of planes, trains, and automobiles (plus a boat or two). Our next step was to board the Alaskan Marine Highway and head on to Juneau.
There, Pa explained the history of the Mendenhall Glacier and told us about the countless times he’d landed seaplanes on the ice with his computer flight simulator. All while we soaked up the wonder in his eyes as we stared at this incredible feat of nature.
At first, I hadn’t quite understood why he wanted to visit Alaska.
Sure, it’s naturally beautiful, but for a man obsessed with aviation, it seemed an odd destination.
But by the end of our time in Juneau, it soon became clear: everyone in Alaska works with small aircraft.
There were seaplanes, amphibian planes, and helicopters everywhere. Such aircraft are not only essential to remote life but the rugged terrain looks exquisite from the air.
After Juneau, we pit-stopped in Anchorage, before catching the Denali Star train to the Denali National Park.
As the early signs of winter fell in North America, Pa saw snow (and squirrels) for the first time since he stood as a teenager on the front line in Korea.
The way his face lit up as he looked around at the powder falling was something special – a window into how he would have looked some 70 years ago.
The following day our seven-day dream was set to come to an end, as we packed up our suitcases and once again took our seats on the train.
The only thing that remained was a sighting of the elusive Mount Denali.
But, as they say, all good things come to those who wait and for just a few minutes the clouds lifted enough for Pa to tick that item off his bucket list.
Our job was done!
Ernie at a plane museum in Anchorage, Alaska. Source: SBS
Logistics were key
By no means is travelling with a 91-year-old easy.
While our Pa is in pretty good nick, walking long distances, regulating body temperature, and keeping up energy levels are all harder as one gets older.
It was key that the three of us took this into account while planning our trip, and while we were on the road.
There was always someone to walk with Pa, and two people to carry the bags.
We had to go above and beyond to ensure there was minimal walking involved in getting to each of the sights. And we had to balance being tough with medications and clothing, without taking away his autonomy.
On the journey home, we even had to play doctor, as his legs began to swell from the plane trips.
But every single second was worth it.
I will never forget the moment we chugged past Mount Denali, and he became part of the small number who get to see even just its base. As Pa stood up on the train, held me tight, and said “That’s it, that’s Mount Denali. I love you three, I got to see it”.
I know my Pa won’t be around forever.
Now when I think about the impact he had on my life, the trampoline, the planes, the desire to see more than the backyard – I can add these moments too.
For a week in Alaska, we gave something back to him, and he was the happiest 91-year-old on the planet.
Breanna Holden is a presenter and producer for NITV and SBS.